You know you're in Murcia when...

Locals get their kicks by serving paparajote to out-of-towners,
and watching them try to eat the sugary fried dough
 without taking the lemon leaf out first 

You know you're in Murcia when..

You go to a seafood restaurant
and walk by this on the way to your table

You know you're in Murcia when...

You set off on a walk, get 2 minutes from home
and stumble upon a flock of these

You know you're in Murcia when...

You make up a big pot of winter stew for a hearty hot lunch,
and end up rolling back the sun shade and eating outside

You know you're in Murcia when...

You can buy snails like this

You know you're in Murcia when...

You tell the barman you've been craving Ortiz tuna,
and he brings you this

You know you're in Murcia when...

There are fresh fava beans on the bar,
and the sign invites you to help yourself while you have a beer
(cervecica in Murciano)

You know you're in Murcia when...

This is the preferred mode of garlic transportation at the market

You know you're in Murcia when..

My friend Marina made up a big batch of Ensaladilla Rusa and gave me half to take home and share with my roommates.  Made with potatoes, pickled vegetables, tuna, hard-boiled eggs and mayo, Ensaladilla Rusa forms the base for one of Murcia's most beloved tapas-the Marinera.  The salad is piled high on a crunchy breadstick that's looped around and pressed together at the ends in the shape of a teardrop.  When made right, the salad holds its shape well enough not to fall through the middle, and it's finished off with a single anchovy laid across the top.  Marina can't stand anchovies and is always the lone person at a bar to order hers without. 

For some reason, she told me, that's not called a Marinera sin anchoa...but rather, a "bicicleta".   

After 15 minutes and 3 spoons, the container looked like this